I saw my first wild emu from the bus window as we drove into Wilson's Promontory. My first thought was of the Aboriginal creation story regarding Gariwerd, the Grampians. I knew Wilson's Prom must have its own story, and surely a more suitable name. I really appreciate legend. It just seems so much more suitable to the history of a place like Wilson's Prom.

      The weather was fine and I was quite excited. Seeing new wildlife is always a pleasant thrill for me. A glimpse of Darby Beach from the road to Tidal River was enough to convince me the Prom was going to be beautiful. We made our way to the Tidal River campground where we were greeted by some overzealous Wombats and many Crimson Roselias. I have never had a bird, especially a wild one, perch on me. I have to admit it was quite a sensation when a young green one landed on my shoulder. It was fun but I kept feeling like it was going to peck my ear off. We made camp and took off for Mount Oberon. The summit was incredible. I got there just in time to see a magical "fingers of god" sunset over the Bass Straight. I have never seen anything like it. It was such a pleasant surprise. That alone made the drive worth while. The only part I didn't enjoy was the mobile phone near the top, and the track which had been converted into a road for access. Of all places, the Prom seems like one that could do without mobile phones. I asked around a bit to figure out why it is there, and the only concrete reason was safety–quicker communication in times of emergency I guess. I'm still not convinced though. Venturing into the wilderness is a risk, a risk which adds to the spiritual experience at that. You bring a buddy with you who can fetch help in emergency not a mobile phone. Its just not worth ruining the aesthetics of the pinnacle of the park.

      We divided ourselves into groups according to hiking ability. I chose to participate in the group which was to undertake the most challenging hike . . . my primary motivation being to avoid the complaints of novice hikers (usually fellow Americans) that I have experienced in the past. I really enjoyed my group this time, however. I met everybody in the dark that night at tidal river and hence had a difficult time associating name with face in the morning. It was fun, though. Our guides name was Rod. He was a cool, mellow New Zealander. He was very knowledgeable and into climbing and mountaineering . . . of course I haven't met many kiwis who aren't. Anyway, Simon took us on a day hike to Darby River because our scheduled hike was quite short for the first day. He taught us a lot about identifying tracks and scats. We hit the trail for real after lunch. My pack was actually quite light because at the last minute we ended up rearranging tent partners and I ended up not having to carry mine. It was a splendid hike along the bluffs and beach of the South coast to Oberon Bay. I think we had the campground there to ourselves. It was very sandy which always makes life interesting and food a little crunchy.

      Surviving in the wilderness with only what you carry on your back is such an enlightening experience. As Brian Nettleton said, you gain a more mature acceptance and appreciation of the place of mankind in the natural world. Basically you realize just how small you really are and how big the world really is. Personally I find so much more time to think, and my thoughts just to have more meaning. I also perceive so much more. I am constantly aware of my surroundings and very interested in things like weather because of the direct effects it has on me in the wilderness. In everyday urban life it's not like that. I often don't even notice my surroundings. I wear the same type of clothes everyday, just if the weather is bad I jump a tram instead of walking. There is so much more stress involved, too, because of the importance we place on time.

(L->R; Rod, Kevin, Kheng, Nick, Alisa)

      After supper some of us took a torch-lit walk down to the beach hopes of spotting penguins. A few stars poked through the patchy cloud cover but what was really exciting was all the crabs on the beach. I'd seen the holes before, and the little balls of sand that they excavate from the beach, but never the crabs themselves. I think I watched, fascinated, for at least 15 minutes as the scurried around my feet. What their mission was, I'll never know. What was down there that they were so quickly striving for? Was it maybe for shelter? Food? How did they make perfectly round balls of sand? We didn't see any penguins but I wasn't disappointed, I was just happy to be outside, and excited about the unexpected wildlife that I did see. I also learned about cuddlefish that day. I cannot believe how many of their beaks litter Australian beaches.

       The next morning was the start of our big day. 25k. That is what set us apart from the other groups. I had done some long days on trail but never quite 25k with a full pack, I don't think. I was feeling good and excited for the challenge. I got the honor of carrying the botany field guide first and was able to quickly identify common aotus (on the seaside of the first dune) and the Tea Tree (everywhere). I had it easy being first but as group we managed to find a few more along the way.

 
(Andy -- in the TeaTrees)    ( Lisa, Nate, Meelynn, Nick--identifying flora)

       I think it is very important to learn the names of plants and animals. It makes them more than just part of the scenery. Walking by a plant without knowing its name is like talking to a person you've never met. Sure you can discuss the weather or footy scores, but you don't talk about anything of real importance. It's the same with plants or animals. Once you learn it's name you have just opened the door to learning about it's uniqueness and how it fits in to the delicate ecosystem around you.

(Rod, Julie, Kheng--"Don't they look like faces?")

       My favorite part about backpacking is all the different ecosystems you encounter. It's so special to one minute be walking through open heathland and the next, thick tea tree forest. Or as Appleton said "The number of possible arrangements of prospects and refuges which are capable of inducing aesthetic satisfaction is obviously infinite" (The experience of landscape, 67). For me it inspires so much imagination. I think about stories I used to read like The Hobbit and The Chronicles of Narnia. Seeing things like marshland and mushrooms remind me of certain scenes and I can just envision the characters in the bush. I half expect to see the castle or the cave around the next bend.

 
(Waterloo Bay)

       We reached Waterloo Bay and it was better than I ever expected. Perfect white sand, incredibly blue water, and no people. What more can you ask for? I loved it. We took a short tea break and were lucky enough to even catch a few rays of sunshine before a storm rolled in. We had only made it up maybe a 100m (vertical) from the beach when we looked back to see the beach shrouded by dark clouds. Minutes later it began to rain on us. I didn't even bother with rain gear. I was quite warm from hiking and just to let myself get wet.

(Waterloo -- about to be engulfed in storm)

       An hour later I began to question that decision. I started to get chilled from being wet and we couldn't even see the lighthouse (which was our lunch destination). I was hungry, too. Day Dreams of dry clothes and food kept me going.

       I was hiking with a few people and we had made some headway on the rest of the group. I stopped to retie my boots and lost the people I was with. I ended up walking an hour or so by myself and I actually quite enjoyed it. It had stopped raining by this point and I began to warm up inside again. I found it very spiritual, being alone in the woods. All I could hear was my own footsteps, the wind in the trees, and the rush of the occasional stream I'd pass, replenished by the recent shower. When you are alone you really take time to appreciate and admire your surroundings. I stopped to fill my water bottle in one of the streams. I can't get over how cool it is that you can still do that here. At home virtually all water is contaminated with Giardia and you are forced to treat it chemically or boil it. It is so refreshing drinking it and knowing that it has never been "treated" or even seen the likes of a pipe.

       I feel so attached to earth when in the wilderness. It's not like in the city where I feel like an intruder, where I am what I have and I must own and make waste. It is such a spiritual escape to be able to live in the wilderness and not have to worry about time and material stuff. I never wear a watch on trail. Its about eating when you are hungry and sleeping when you are tired. Time is irrelevant.

(South coast from lighthouse)

       We made it to the lighthouse not long after and our group reconvened. We had lunch and admired the rugged coastline. We climbed to the lighthouse and the steep hill leading up to it let me know I was tired. It was that sort of "back aching, legs screaming, never felt better" kind of pains. Only 4.5k to go. Roaring Meg the destination. It took every last bit of energy, but we made it. I made supper with my tentmates and as a group we discussed plans for the morning.

       We had expressed interest seeing the South Point of mainland Australia. Rod told us it would involve a 2+ hour return hike which would mean a we'd have to leave before 5:00am in order to make it there and back in time to make it to the meeting spot by 11:30am. We decided we had to do it because we may never have another chance. It was starry out, too, and that influenced our decision by giving us good hopes of seeing a brilliant sunrise. I learned how to pick out the Southern Cross constellation before going to bed quite early. And yes, you could still see it at 4:20 am when I drug myself out of bed, or should I say bag. It was blacker out then we went to bed but I managed to boil some water for tea. We left on time and virtually our whole hike there was lit by torch. It was just beginning to lighten up by the time we made it to the point. The last 200m was a maze of rock scrambling, so we were thankful for some natural light. It was good fun getting to the furthest part of the point and very rewarding despite the fact that some clouds rolled in just in time to hide the sunrise from us. I managed to get slightly overzealous and tweak my ankle in a boulder to boulder leap but it wasn't too bad. We saw some awesome waves pound the rocks and even managed to get sprayed by a few.

(4:20am)

 
(Southern most point of mainland Australia)

       The hike back was a bit depressing as it always is. I hate returning to civilization. At the same time, though, I felt extremely happy about reaching the goals we'd set. Four days of breathing nothing but fresh air was helping my mood as well. When we were all packed up and I had a moment to reminisce about the beauty of the prom, the friends I'd made, and all that I learned and gained spiritually, I couldn't help but think what a valuable experience this was.

(L->R; Meelynn, Nick, Chris, Rod, Andy, Kevin, Kheng, Lisa, Julie, Nate, Alisa)

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