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No coin of numismatic value should be casually cleaned. This typically strips off a thin
molecular layer of the coin, permanently altering the surface. Read Scott A. Travers'
Coin Collector's Survival Manual: 6th Edition (2008, House of Collectibles):
http://www.amazon.com/Coin-Collectors-Survival-Manual-6th/dp/0375723056/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_1
for the pitfalls & horrors of cleaning.
In the case of higher-end silver coins, they generally become ineligible for professional grading, lose their wagonwheel luster, and drop enormously in resale value. So this discussion should not be interpreted as a promotion for cleaning coins (especially not the way I proceeded here!). But my goal here is to produce "socially acceptable" coins that I could either use in circulation or bring to the bank. If a coin has been sitting in the ground for 1-50+ years, it's usually in no condition to circulate. Inspiration was taken from Michael Chaplan's excellent Urban Treasure Hunter (2004, Square One Publishers): http://www.amazon.com/Urban-Treasure-Hunter-Practical-Beginners/dp/0757000908. Unfortunately I didn't take photos of the coins before I cleaned them. It doesn't take much imagination to visualize a coin as it is dug out from years of immersion in soil, clay, etc. Other than brushing them off, or giving a rinse under the faucet after they were found, I didn't make an effort until this winter to remove the hardened grime en masse. So the photos here are all "after" photos. I ran all of the common coins through various cleaning experiments. Soaking for an hour or so in white rice vinegar and salt, or running them in batches in my rock tumbler. In the tumbler I added some rounded pieces of gravel and a batch of either vinegar and salt, and/or hot water and a mild non-phosphorous dish detergent. The typical batch ran 1-3 hours. Afterward I rinsed them in a pasta strainer. The coins were left to dry on paper towels, and were then put into open-lidded plastic containers. I've since located a discussion that may have been useful for me to know earlier: http://metaldetectingworld.com/cleaning_coin_p10_tumbler.shtml. First observation: Don't mix copper coins with silver-colored clad coins. This resulted in copper quarters, dimes and nickels. This is reversible, though, by more tumbling. To avoid this problem, simply tumble the pennies separately. Others have suggested soaking coins in olive oil, but I find that this takes a long time and doesn't usually yield great results. Another point on copper -- even rinsing copper coins in plain water can turn them black. Apparently this is the chemical equation that can remove it. I've long since forgotten my stoichiometry, so I leave it to others to verify. "Black copper oxide CuO reacts with acetic acid CH3COOH (inside vinegar) forming copper acetate Cu(CH3COO)2 and water:" CuO + 2CH3COOH --> Cu(CH3COO)2 + H2O I learned with a different batch of pennies that lemon juice is too powerful. After a few hours it actually began to eat through the coin causing permanent damage. So if it's an old wheat penny, Indianhead penny, etc. I'd resist the temptation to clean them in general. |
"Copper quarters" (oops!):
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After sorting, I initially counted 666 US pennies -- an inauspicious number in the West... But I
then realized that one of them was a Canadian penny. Those I pulled out into a separate pile, so I ended up
with a total of 665 US pennies. Saved by the Canadians.
Of the 665 pennies, I sorted them as follows: "Bad" pennies: 162 Copper (pre-1982): 230 Remaining serviceable zinc pennies: 273 The distinction between serviceable vs. "bad" seems somewhat subjective at first glance, but it was actually easy to tell which group the coin ought to be in -- the damaged pennies really did stand out differently. I further divided the 162 bad pennies into groups by decade: 1970's (copper): 1 1981 (copper): 1 1980's (zinc): 55 1990's (zinc): 71 2000's (zinc): 26 Unreadable mint year: 7 I missed one coin in my counting here, but didn't care to recount since the results are obvious. Copper-plated zinc pennies simply don't hold up. In the treasure hunting trade, these 1982+ Lincoln pennies (97.5% zinc, 2.5% copper) are known as "Zincolns." Not sure what I'm going to do with these, but in a weird sense they're more "valuable" than ordinary pennies due to their scarcity. The only way to make pennies look exactly like this is to bury them in the ground for 1-27 years (minted 1982-2009) and wait. Vintage mintage. Maybe I'll make a fortune with them on eBay. "Step right up -- get your genuine decayed coins here." One man's junk is another man's treasure. |
The pile of bad pennies:
The bad pennies seemed to show more wear on the obverse than the reverse. Typical problems included pitting, rim corrosion, even small chunks missing from the coins:
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Most of the serviceable zinc pennies didn't clean up particularly well. Some of this may be due to my
imperfect methods, but when you compare the copper coins (next section), it's clear that the zinc variable
makes a huge difference. The zinc coins tended to gain a residue, dark stains or non-uniform blotches.
After this photo was taken, I took out the worst offenders and re-rinsed them. The whitish film which appears on some of them disappeared when the coins were wet, but came back after they dried. I've since found a web resource that offers suggestions for cleaning zinc coins, but have not tried it yet: http://metaldetectingworld.com/cleaning_coin_p19_zinc_tin.shtml. |
Pile of blotched, but serviceable, copper-plated zinc:
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1982 was a transitional year for US pennies. Some are copper, some are copper-plated zinc. The best way to
tell for sure is by weighing them. Since I don't have that kind of time, or an accurate scale, I treated
all 1982's as zinc. So the resulting copper pennies (230 of them) are definitely copper -- no false
positives. As a result, some of the 1982 "serviceable zinc" in the previous section are actually copper.
The difference is clearly noted. The copper coins tended to exhibit more uniform patinas, little or no blotching, and much less corrosion in general. |
Pre-1982 Copper Pennies:
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